You can grow enough food to feed your family, even on a small piece of land. Maybe not 100% of your fruit and veggie needs—but honestly, I don’t know anyone who grows all their own food.
This is a long article, so grab a cup of tea, a pencil, and paper for notes. Some of my suggestions aren’t the “proper” way to garden—just go with it, don’t stress over perfection, and let’s get started growing food.
The truth? Growing some food, even a little, is better than growing none. Let’s look at how to grow more in less space by picking the right plants, succession planting, and getting creative.
Keeping Notes
The best way to start a garden is on paper. Don’t over-plan to the point of never starting, but if you want to garden yearly, notes will save you headaches.
I love planning with simple pencil and paper. Over time, my notes have become a crucial gardening tool. If you need help organizing, The Gardening Notebook is perfect.
This 120-page printable notebook becomes your custom planner. Print what you need, add notes, and over time, it’ll be as unique as your garden.
Start Small
If you’re new to growing food, don’t till your whole yard and install 22 raised beds. A couple of well-tended beds will produce more than 20 neglected ones.
Starting small means early wins—which keeps you motivated. Overwhelm leads to quitting (trust me, I’ve been there).
“Small” depends on you: maybe herbs on a windowsill, Swiss chard in flower beds, or one raised bed this summer. Whatever it is, growing food is worth it, even on a tiny scale.
Find a Location
Most veggies need full sun—at least 6 hours of direct light daily.
Pick a sunny spot with room for a few beds. I like 4’x8’ beds—easy to manage. Longer than 8’? Fine. Wider than 4’? Harder to harvest.
I’ve seen backyards with two 4’x8’ beds feeding a family, surrounded by play areas. Others grow along fences (2.5’ deep) or even in front yards (unless your HOA forbids it).
Use Edible Landscaping to Sneak in Food
Edible landscaping just means swapping ornamentals for food plants. Instead of a shade tree, plant a fruit tree that’ll eventually shade and feed you.
Most fruit trees take years to produce, but some fast-growing varieties fruit in just a couple of years. Great edible landscape picks: Swiss chard, kale, herbs, edible hibiscus, onions, and perennials like scarlet runner beans.
Honestly, any fruit or veggie works—just know they’ll look messy as you harvest. But tucked among flowers? No one will notice.
Building Good Soil
Soil is your garden’s foundation. If funds are tight, invest here—not fancy seeds.
For raised beds, some folks line the bottom with landscape fabric to block weeds. I skip it—you’ll need way more soil, and cardboard (which decomposes) works fine. A few beds won’t be overrun by weeds anyway, so use what’s already there and build up.
Buy garden soil for beds. New gardeners: just purchase it—don’t stress over DIY “perfect” mixes.
Containers? Use potting soil. Yes, you can make your own, but starting out, store-bought is simpler.
How to Build Raised Beds
We used wood; my sister used cinder blocks. I’d switch to blocks eventually—they don’t rot like wood. I’ve also seen galvanized metal beds. Wood’s cheapest but lasts 5–10 years.
When building ours, we loosened the soil with a garden fork (a shovel works too). No flipping—just aerating. Then cardboard, topped with 6″ of garden soil. Cardboard breaks down over time, letting roots reach native soil and leaving room for mulch.
Mulch and Compost
Mulch and compost are game-changers. Mulch = anything that breaks down: wood chips, hay, grass clippings, leaves, shredded paper. Each has pros and cons (more here).
Compost feeds plants; mix it into soil. If you’re using store-bought soil, wait until midseason to topdress with compost.
Starting out? Buy compost—homemade takes time. But start a pile now for next year!
Pro tips:
- Got livestock? Compost their bedding. No animals? Ask a local farmer for used bedding.
- Trench composting: Bury slow-decomposers (like banana peels) directly in beds or pots.
- Worm composting: Perfect for small spaces—worm castings are gold for soil.
Where to Get Seeds and Plants
- Gardening friends: Most love sharing extras and advice.
- Farmers’ markets: Support local growers—many sell seedlings. Message ahead to reserve.
- Feed stores: Cheap bulk seeds and transplants.
- Grocery/big-box stores: Don’t overthink “heirloom” or “organic”—a $0.50 zucchini packet still grows zucchini!
- Online: Delays are common now due to high demand.
Container Gardening
No yard? No problem. Use:
- Molasses tubs (from feed stores) for big plants.
- Yogurt containers for herbs/lettuce.
- Old tires: Not ideal long-term (chemical leaching), but okay in a pinch.
Indoor Gardening
Even with outdoor space, I grow indoors:
- Microgreens (too hot for outdoor salads).
- Sprouts occasionally.
- Herbs or sweet potato vines.
Succession Planting
Stagger harvests by:
- Planting varieties with different maturity dates.
- Sowing seeds every 2–3 weeks.
- Replanting after pulling spent crops.
I mix all three to maximize space.
One to One, One to Many Plant Choices
When space is tight, focus on plants that give you the biggest harvest for the room they take up. I like to categorize them as one to one (plant one seed, get one harvest) and one to many (plant one seed, harvest multiple times).
True one to one plants are rare because they’re not the most efficient way to reproduce. Storage onions are a good example—plant one seed, and you’ll get one onion bulb.
Some plants are often thought of as one to one, but I’d argue they’re more like one to two. Take carrots and beets—we usually eat the root, but the greens are edible too. Cauliflower is another example—it grows one main head (called a curd), but you can also harvest its leaves a few at a time before the curd matures.
Most fruits and veggies are one to many. Plant one tomato seed, and you’ll get pounds of tomatoes. Or sow one kale seed and keep harvesting from that same plant for months.
How to Water a Vegetable Garden
After healthy soil (mulch and compost included), watering makes the difference between an okay garden and a great one. No plant likes soggy soil, but all thrive with deep, consistent watering.
Water the soil, NOT the plants. If you have an irrigation system, great—just keep the water at ground level. If hand-watering, place the hose on the soil and let it soak in. Avoid splashing dirt onto the plants (mulch helps prevent this).
Water deeply. Shallow watering keeps roots near the surface, but deep watering encourages strong root growth. Most plants need at least 1 inch of water per week.
For a 4’x8′ garden bed, that’s almost 15 gallons weekly—and even more in summer. Instead of daily light watering, give the bed 5 gallons twice a week.
Calculate water needs:
1 sq ft of garden space × 0.62 gal = total water needed
If hand-watering, time how long it takes to fill a 5-gallon bucket—that’s roughly how long each bed needs, several times a week. Mulch helps retain moisture between waterings.
Best time to water?
- Evening is ideal—less evaporation, more soak time before heat hits.
- Morning if powdery mildew is an issue—lets leaves dry faster.
Think Vertically
Growing up saves space. Many food crops are vining, so trellises are a must.
A trellis can be simple:
- Chain-link or wooden fence with chicken wire
- Cattle panels + T-posts (we use these for arches)
- Old iron window bars or futon frames (we’ve repurposed these too)
- T-posts with horizontal/vertical wire (baling wire or hay twine works)
Pallets? Some stand them upright and plant in them, but they dry out fast in hot climates. Better to plant in the ground or deep containers and use the pallet as a trellis (add wire for support).
Plants for a Small Backyard Garden
With limited space, prioritize wisely. I’ve got free worksheets to help plan how much to plant for your family—fill out the form below to get them.
Beans (Snap, String, Green)
- One to many: One plant yields 15–25 pods (about 6 beans each).
- Bush beans: Low-growing, produce heavily then fade.
- Pole beans: Vining, yield smaller amounts all season.
For small spaces: Choose pole beans. Aim for 5 plants per person.
Beets
- Technically one to one (one seed = one root), but greens are edible.
- Fast-growing (60 days), compact, great for tucking between other plants.
- Succession sow every few weeks for staggered harvests.
My tip: Grate into salads/smoothies—even beet-haters won’t notice!
Brassicas (Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, etc.)
- Mostly cool-weather, frost-tolerant crops.
- Cabbage/cauliflower/Brussels: One harvest (though leaves are edible).
- Broccoli: After main head is cut, it produces side shoots (worth it!).
Plant 1 broccoli per person—harvest leaves early, then enjoy heads + shoots.
Carrots
- One to one, but greens are edible (pesto, sautéed, dried).
- Quick-growing (50–60 days), ideal for succession planting.
- Tuck them anywhere—even flower beds!
Cucumbers
- Vining summer crop; needs support (even a tomato cage works).
- Two types: slicing (for fresh eating) and pickling (thinner skin).
Small garden? Plant both—just prioritize pickling if you preserve.
Garlic
- One to one (one clove = one bulb).
- Planted in fall, harvested next summer.
Not space-efficient—skip if your garden’s tiny.
Herbs
- Perennials: Sage, oregano, chives, rosemary (try creeping rosemary for small spaces).
- Annuals: Basil (summer), cilantro/dill (cool weather).
Harvest often—more you pick, more they produce!
Leafy Greens (Lettuce, Spinach, Kale, Chard)
- Cool-weather favorites; harvest leaves repeatedly.
- Kale & chard: Heat-tolerant, garden workhorses.
Plant 4 kale + 4 chard plants—they’ll feed you for months.
Okra
- One to many, thrives in heat.
- Tall, not bushy; great for fence lines or edible landscaping.
Onions
- Storage onions: Not space-friendly.
- Green onions: Cut-and-come-again; regrow from grocery scraps!
Peas
- Cool-weather vines; need trellises.
- Snap peas are my top pick for small gardens—eat pods or peas.
Plant 5+ per person for more than just snacks.
Peppers
- Hot peppers: 2–3 plants (e.g., jalapeño, habanero).
- Sweet peppers: 2–3 plants (bell, banana).
Pro tip: Pick green peppers early to boost production; let some ripen for deeper flavor.
Potatoes
- Space-heavy; better in grow bags if room allows.
Trick: Mound soil as they grow to increase yield.
Squash
- Summer squash (zucchini, yellow): Bushy, prolific (1 plant per person).
- Winter squash (pumpkins, butternut): Vining; trellis smaller varieties.
Sweet Potatoes
- Warm-weather crop; edible leaves + tubers.
- Grow in containers or as ground cover (pretty + productive!).
Tomatoes
- Determinate: Heavy yield, then done (good for canning).
- Indeterminate: Steady harvest all season (best for fresh eating).
First-timer? Chat with a gardener friend—try a few varieties to see what works for you.
Conclusion
If you’ve read this far—congrats! You’re clearly eager to grow your own food.
So start now. Don’t wait for the “perfect” plan. You’ll have successes and learning moments, but you’ll improve each year.
Just take a breath… and dig in.
