Mulching in the vegetable garden isn’t just about making things look nicer. It helps keep weeds in check, improves the soil, cuts down on watering, and does so much more. But what exactly is mulch?
What is mulch?
There are a few ways to define it, but basically, mulch is any material you spread over the soil around plants—usually about 2 inches or deeper—to suppress weeds and hold moisture. You’ve got organic and inorganic types, but for veggie gardens, stick with organic.
That means those black rubber mulches made from old tires (which never break down) aren’t a good fit for edible plants. Honestly, they’re better suited for playgrounds than gardens.
No matter which organic mulch you choose, I recommend laying down cardboard first. It’s great for weed control and won’t compact the soil.
Benefits of Mulching
It always makes me cringe a little when I see bare garden soil. I get why big farms skip mulch—they grow food very differently than home gardeners. But I’ll never understand why some backyard growers (even row gardeners) don’t use it, because the perks are huge:
- Saves water – Super helpful if you live somewhere with 100+ days of 100°F heat. Nobody wants to water more than necessary in that kind of weather.
- Controls weeds – Blocks sunlight from reaching dormant weed seeds in the soil.
- Builds healthy soil – Over time, it breaks down into rich, fertile earth.
- Boosts soil life – The damp, decomposing organic matter feeds earthworms and microbes.
- Slow-releases nutrients – You might not need fertilizer at all.
- Prevents nutrient runoff – Keeps soil nutrients from washing away in heavy rains.
- Protects from frost – Great for overwintering asparagus and other perennials.
- Supports transplants – Helps keep delicate young plants upright.
- Shelters beneficial insects – Though pests might move in too, the long-term benefits (healthy soil, strong plants) usually keep them in check.
- Regulates soil temp – Keeps soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter.
Best Mulches for Vegetable Gardens
Pretty much any mulch that works for veggies also works for herbs, flowers, and fruit trees. Common options include wood chips, straw, hay, pine needles, and leaf litter—each with pros and cons.
Wood Chips as Mulch
Most folks use wood chips in flower beds for weed control, water retention, and looks. You can buy them cheaply at nurseries in different colors (nice for landscaping).
Years ago, the Back to Eden documentary stirred debate in the gardening world—wood chips in the veggie garden? Yes, but with a catch: keep them on top of the soil. Don’t mix them in.
When planting, push the chips aside, dig your hole, place the plant, backfill with soil, then smooth the chips back over. Burying wood chips can deplete nitrogen as they decompose.
Unless you’ve got a wood chipper and endless tree limbs, buying enough for a big garden gets pricey. But they break down slowly, so you won’t need to replace them yearly.
We only use wood chips in flower beds (they look tidier) and chip our own branches for them. I avoid buying chips when possible.
Straw as Mulch
Straw is the leftover stalks from grain crops like oats, rye, wheat, or barley. It’s often used for animal bedding.
Depending on where you live, straw can be cheap or expensive. It’s sold in square bales and needs to be loosened before spreading.
Since straw comes from commercial crops, it might’ve been sprayed with herbicides. The good news? Most herbicides break down within 60 days, so if the straw was cut over two months ago, it’s likely safe.
I’ve used straw before, but it’s pricey here, so I stopped.
Tip: If you use straw for livestock bedding, compost it before adding to the garden (except rabbit bedding—that can go straight in).
Hay as Mulch
I was skeptical at first, but when I found a farmer selling old round bales for $20 each, I tried them—just in the walkways.
The bales were 3 years old and crumbling. We laid cardboard first, then piled on a few inches of hay. It worked perfectly—no weeds!
Hay can contain grass seeds (a potential headache), but after two weed-free years, I started using it in garden beds too. Like straw, it may have herbicide residue, so old hay is safest.
Pine Needles as Mulch
We have pine trees, so I use the needles around fruit trees and nearby garden beds. (Lazy gardener hack: mulch what’s closest!)
People warn that pine needles acidify soil, but I’m not convinced. I’ve tried lowering pH for blueberries, and by the time the needles decomposed, the soil pH barely changed. The University of New Hampshire agrees—pine needles don’t significantly alter pH.
They’re free if you have pines, stay loose as they break down, and resist washing away in rain. Plus, they decompose slowly.
Leaf Litter as Mulch
Once, I asked a friend for his bagged oak leaves. He said, “Sure, but they’re too acidic for gardens.” I smiled and took them anyway. Like pine needles, oak leaves neutralize as they decompose.
Avoid black walnut or eucalyptus leaves—they contain natural herbicides.
Every year, tons of leaves end up in landfills. Instead, use them to build soil! Even if you don’t garden, mow over leaves to let them decompose on your lawn.
Leaves are free—just scoop them from curbside piles (ask if the lawn was sprayed first). Watch for trash in leaf bags, though.
Tip: Break up leaves before mulching. Whole leaves can mat down and smother soil. We run ours through a chipper, but kids jumping in a pile works too!
We also use leaves for winter compost.
What about sheet mulching?
Also called lasagna gardening, this method layers organic matter (cardboard, hay, leaves, soil) to create fertile planting beds. It’s ideal for starting new beds but works in existing ones too.
What’s the best mulch?
My vote: whatever’s already on your property—leaves, pine needles, or chipped wood. You know it’s chemical-free.
Next best? Free/cheap materials from trusted sources (like old hay or friends’ leaves). Save store-bought mulch (wood chips, bark) for flower beds—it’s pricey.
Since our garden budget comes from groceries, I’m frugal. Experiment to find what works for you!
You can build healthy soil just by mulching and composting—no fancy amendments needed. Soil tests help if you’re adding specific nutrients, but with mulch, you can start anytime. So stop overthinking and just mulch!
The Family Garden Plan – A Quick Review
I got a copy of Melissa K. Norris’s book a while back, and it’s packed with useful tips—whether you’re new to gardening or a seasoned grower.
Melissa shares how she grows a year’s worth of food for her family. The book includes charts, worksheets, and soil advice (I learned a lot from the natural amendments section!).
Growing enough for your family
Mulching and soil-building are the foundation. But you also need to know how much to plant to meet your family’s needs.
